Beauty boost on the go

CONCERN with our appearance is nothing new, but in Asia, the concept of beauty is more holistic – with beautiful skin considered a reflection of inner health. The region’s beauty industry has grown consistently and contributing a major share to the $250-billion global market¹.  It has always been a dynamic industry, adapting to meet new innovations and scientific breakthroughs. 

 

Today, rising incomes, changing lifestyles and growing consumer awareness of the science behind health and beauty is continuing to drive growth and push demand for more choice than there was before. Increasing numbers of consumers are now looking for evermore effective and non-invasive methods to boost their personal beauty.

 

 

Healthy and youthful-looking skin is a key component of a sought-after attractive appearance, with facial skin care products alone making up around 27% of the cosmetic industry².  In fact, the skin care segment has long been a key component of the personal care and beauty market, growing by $15 billion³ between 2007 and 2011.  

 

The science of beauty underscores Asian traditions: Beautiful skin on the outside needs a healthy foundation on the inside. Indeed, a growing body of research has shown how certain nutrients can make a significant contribution to skin health⁴.  “Beauty from Within” solutions such as nutricosmetics are nutritional supplements which support the structure of the skin from the inside. As awareness of these solutions increases, the number of consumers turning to nutricosmetics to aid skin beauty is on the rise, with the nutricosmetic market expected to be worth $4.24 billion⁵ by 2017.  

 

A healthy foundation

 

The main structural element of the skin, collagen is largely responsible for its characteristic properties, such as firmness and tonicity. The most abundant protein in the body, collagen’s role is to maintain the structure and resistance of the skin’s tissues, creating a network which anchors the layers of the skin and forms a support base for components such as elastin, to maintain skin elasticity and hyaluronic acid to lock in moisture. Collagen fibers, constructed within fibroblast cells, are responsible for the maintenance and resistance of the skin tissues. The presence of collagen peptides regulates the activity of fibroblasts in the skin and stimulates the production of both collagen and hyaluronic acid, which is important for skin hydration⁶.  

 

As we age, the production of new collagen fibers declines as the collagen synthesis by fibroblasts decreases.  Collagen is also hindered by its own aging process. With age, collagen becomes more and more cross-linked and fragmented. This makes the skin tougher and limits the protein’s ability to bind large qualities of water, making the skin appear dry, dehydrated and old. 

 

Smooth, firm and younger-looking skin requires optimum levels of well-organized collagen fibers to ensure it retains elasticity, firmness plus its moisture-binding capacity. Research has shown that exogenous collagen peptides may act to trigger the synthesis of new collagen fibers by stimulating fibroblast cells.⁷

 

Collagen peptides are the hydrolyzed form of collagen. Having gained sustained popularity across Japan for their anti-aging attributes when consumed as an ingestible nutricosmetic, collagen peptides are now increasingly sought-after in the rest of the world. 

 

With this in mind, Mai Nygaard, global product manager for Rousselot’s Peptan® collagen peptides, discusses the science behind beautiful skin and the innovative ingredients which can deliver advanced skin health benefits from within. The Peptan range is an example of an effective collagen peptide ingredient, which has been shown to be effective in reducing fine wrinkles, improving skin hydration and excellent acceptability. 

 

Offering a unique combination of amino acids not found in other protein sources, Peptan is derived from three natural origins: fish, porcine and bovine, although the fish grade collagen peptide (Peptan F) remains the most popular variety for beauty applications. 

 

Skin beauty benefits from within

 

As the most extensively researched collagen peptides available on the market, Peptan’s efficacy in supporting skin health is backed by a growing body of evidence. To assess the efficacy of Peptan collagen peptides, three double-blind randomized clinical studies were recently undertaken by leading skin institutes in both France and Japan. In each study, participants orally ingested a 10g daily dose of either Peptan or a placebo, and the anti-aging and moisturizing effects on the skin were recorded.

 

Key to smoother skin – Fine lines and wrinkles are a key indicator of age and as such, wrinkle prevention is the primary aim of many consumers. A 12-week study conducted by Dermscan in France demonstrated that consumption of Peptan contributes to a significant decrease in the number of micro-relief furrows by 26%. The trial also showed that Peptan can help prevent deep wrinkle formation and increase skin suppleness by 19%⁸. 

 

Skin hydration effect – Similarly in Japan, 22 women aged between 40 and 59 were selected in Tokyo to take part in an eight-week clinical study. Cutaneous hydration measurements were performed in this trial with a Corneometer® to record Peptan’s moisturizing effect. At the end of the trial, the Corneometer measurement found an increase in skin hydration of 28% for participants who had ingested Peptan. No increase was observed in the placebo group.  These results demonstrate that a daily oral intake of Peptan can significantly reduce skin dryness and its associated signs⁹.  

 

Skin is restructured in just one month – In the most recent French study done by Cosderma, 106 women took part in a clinical trial to assess the effectiveness of Peptan F (fish origin) in the deeper layers of the skin. Advanced analytical technology was applied, using echography for collagen density measurement and advanced confocal laser technology to assess the degree of fragmentation of the collagen fiber network of the skin. 

 

At the end of the 12-week study, a significant collagen fragmentation decrease of 31% was reported in participants who received Peptan F with obvious results after just one month. No change was observed in the placebo group. In addition, collagen density improved by 9%. By decreasing collagen fragmentation and increasing the overall collagen density, Peptan F can promote visible anti-age effects on the skin¹⁰.  This restructuring of the skin is key to the understanding of how Peptan can boost the collagen network and density from the inside, leading to visible improvements in skin appearance, structure, firmness and elasticity after 1-3 months. 

 

Excellent acceptability – In these studies, the participants were asked to fill out a questionnaire and report on acceptance of the Peptan supplement. Excellent acceptability was confirmed, with no side effects reported.

 

Functional benefits

 

As well as the proven efficacy of Peptan to support skin health and beauty, the innovative ingredient also offers a range of unique functional benefits making it the ideal choice for manufacturers targeting the nutricosmetics market. Peptan, for example, delivers excellent organoleptic properties, such as a neutral taste and odor profile. They are also free from additives and preservatives, and fully traceable, 100% natural and cause no documented side-effects. Additionally, Peptan is instantly soluble, heat and pH resistant, and can be incorporated into a wide range of applications. These include value-added water (see box), powdered drinks and beauty beverages:

 

Coconut-based drink – Formulated with 7g Peptan per glass, this refreshing drink can moisturize skin and builds up collagen from the inside for skin beauty. With electrolytes (e.g. potassium), minerals (calcium, magnesium) and vitamins known for their beneficial properties on skin, this is the ultimate healthy beauty drink for skin and body hydration.

 

Sparkling beauty shot – A delicious taste integrated into a sparkling drink that contributes to maintain healthy skin. Rich in Peptan and vitamin C, this blend of bioactive ingredients acts in synergy to provide the skin with an anti-aging boost.

 

Fit and fabulous instant drink – Combining the anti-aging and health benefits of Peptan with polyphenols and antioxidants from the fruit and vegetable powders, this drink can be consumed at any time of the day to boost health and fitness, and will help promote radiant and fabulous looking skin.

 

As consumers grow increasingly aware of the benefits of nutricosmetics, there are growing opportunities for beverage manufacturers to tap into the lucrative health and beauty industry. To make the most of these opportunities and deliver products with real consumer appeal, manufacturers should work with proven, easy-to-use ingredients, such as Peptan collagen peptides, to carve their share in this burgeoning market.

 

¹ Lucintel (2012) “Global Beauty Care Products Industry 2012-2017: Trend, Profit, and Forecast Analysis, September 2012”

² Romanowski, Perry “A Cosmetic Industry Overview for Cosmetic Chemists”, www.chemistscorner.com, first accessed on 6/12/2014

³ Euromonitor, 2011

⁴ Cosgrove M.C., Franco, O.H., Granger S.P., Murray, P.G. and Mayes A.E. (2007) “Dietary nutrient intakes and skin-aging appearance among middle-aged American women.” The American Journal of Clinical Nutrition, 86, 1225-1231.

⁵ Global Industry Analysts Inc. (2011) “Nutricosmetics: a global strategic business report”

⁶ Ohara, H., Ichikawa S, Matsumoto H, Akiyama M, Fujimoto N, Kobayashi T, and Tajima S. (2010) “Collagen-derived dipeptide, proline-hydroxyproline stimulates cell proliferation and hyaluronic aid synthesis in cultured human dermal fibroblasts.” Journal of Dermatology, 37: 330-338

⁷ Postlethwaite, A.E, Seyer, J.M. and Kang, A.H. (1978) “Chemotactic attraction of human fibroblasts to type I, II, and III collagens and collagen-derived peptides.” Proceedings of the National Academy of Sciences of the United States of America (PNAS), 75(2): 871-875

⁸ Clinical study (2008) – AOO654 – 51, Dermscan, France  

⁹ Clinical study YNTKK (2008) – 4144, Souken, Japan 

¹⁰ Clinical study, Cosderma, France (2012) Visualization and assessment versus placebo of the effect in vivo of the oral intake of hydrolyzed collagen on skin properties. Investigational products: Rousselot Peptan F versus Maltodextrine PYC