Groupe Berkem’s game-changing bioactives for skincare

Groupe Berkem is a major player in the area of plant-based chemistry, leveraging its expertise in supporting manufacturers with bio-based materials and sustainable processes. One is RECELLCL’IN^®, an innovative new ingredient for beauty and cosmetics.

The company based in Blanquefort (near Bordeaux), France, showcased the product at this year’s in-cosmetics Asia held from November 5-7 in Bangkok. At this event, Ringier spoke with Nathalie Lévy, Marketing Manager for the Health, Beauty & Nutrition Business Area, who discussed the science behind RECELLCL’IN^®, other tailored formulations developed for the Southeast Asian market, and key beauty trends for 2025.

Ms. Lévy’s background is in Food and Health engineering, and she has over a decade of expertise in nutrition and health marketing consulting where she has collaborated with ingredient suppliers, cosmetic laboratories, contract manufacturers and the dietary supplement industry.

Nathalie Lévy, Marketing Manager for the Health, Beauty & Nutrition Business Area

What is RECELLCL’IN^® and how do you distinguish this from other active ingredients for skincare?

RECELLCL’IN^® is our latest active ingredient developed by our R&D team for oily and acne-prone skin. Acne is now recognized as a lifelong concern, particularly affecting women during key life stages such as adolescence, pre/post pregnancy, and menopause. Its causes are multifaceted, including genetic factors, microbiota dysbiosis, and stress, with a significant impact on emotional well-being.

Unlike traditional multi-parametric solutions targeting inflammation, testosterone conversion, sebum oxidation, hypercornification, and bacterial proliferation, RECELLCL’IN^® offers a groundbreaking approach by reactivating the autophagy system in sebocytes. This innovation addresses seboregulation, mattifies the skin, and improves overall well-being.

Please elaborate on the key active ingredient. How was it selected, and what specific benefits does it offer?

The key active ingredient is RECELLCL’IN^® which draws inspiration from Groupe Berkem's extensive expertise in nutrition field and plant intelligence. At the crossroads of stress management and skin function support, a well-known plant reveals, in vitro and in vivo, all its potential and effectiveness for oily skin rebalancing. Passiflora, a plant traditionally known for alleviating insomnia and anxiety, emerged as the ideal candidate due to its antioxidant properties, particularly those attributed to vitexin.

According to in vivo study, RECELLCL’IN^® offers strong support to individuals suffering from this skin condition by visibly improving their skin appearance. To wit,

• - Reduction of hyperseborrhea: -17,7% vs day 0 and up to -34% after 28 days of treatment
• - Reduction of skin shininess skin shininess: -34% and up to -56% after 28 days of treatment
• - Minimizing pore size: -14.7% vs day 0

Moreover, user self-assessments revealed that 75% perceived their skin more radiant and brighter and 80% reported that the feeling of sticky and oily skin is reduced after 28 days of treatment.

These metrics highlight the powerful and visible benefits RECELLCL’IN^® offers to those dealing with oily skin concerns.

Besides RECELLCL’IN^®, are there other innovations specifically for skin care?

We leverage our extensive expertise in creating natural-origin ingredients rich in active molecules like polyphenols. A specific range in our portfolio is based on a patented technology. For instance, our BERKEMYOL^®, featuring Green Tea, Potentilla, and Maritime Pine Bark are actives stabilized by PHYTOVECTOR^® technology. This patented method stabilizes polyphenol molecules through esterification, ensuring they retain a lipophilic character essential for effective skin penetration and optimal bioavailability.

Has Groupe Berkem developed any formulations specifically designed for the Southeast Asian market?

Yes, we’ve tailored formulations to address the specific needs of the Southeast Asian market, such as our oil control suncare fluid. This formulation combines RECELLCL’IN^® with SUN’CHRONIZE^®, an active ingredient derived from saffron that synchronizes the circadian cycle while providing antioxidant and anti-photoaging benefits. Both acne-related solutions and sun protection align with the growing “sunification” trend in the Asia Pacific region, particularly in markets like China.

What trends do you foresee driving growth in the Southeast Asian market over the next few years?

Through our market analysis and insights from conferences like in-cosmetics Asia at Mintel and Asia CosmeLab as well as discussions with our local partners, we’ve identified five key trends driving growth in the Southeast Asian market:

1. Skin longevity: A shift toward “slow aging” rather than anti-aging, with an emphasis on combating skin inflammaging being an undesirable result of skin ageing.
2. Mind-body connection: Stress and anxiety are increasingly linked to skin conditions like acne, emphasizing holistic beauty solutions.
3. Skin tone management: Whitening and brightening will continue to dominate the market.
4. Dermocosmetics market and functional makeup: Products that improve both skin health and appearance are gaining traction.
5. Post-surgery skincare: It is very specific in APAC, particularly in Thailand. There is a growing demand for cosmetic post-surgery skincare that aid in skin barrier repair, hydration, and wound healing following cosmetic surgery.

These trends reflect a dynamic market that values innovation and tailored solutions, making Southeast Asia a strategic focus for us.