New quinoa-based, skin-friendly emulsifier for cosmetics

Pickmulse, the new O/W surfactant-free emulsifier and encapsulation system based on Lucas Meyer Cosmetics’ breakthrough patented quinoa starch technology, was recently launched globally.

“Pickmulse offers a multifaceted and innovative approach to cosmetics that we’ve designed to significantly accelerate new formula development and improve consumer satisfaction,” says Isabelle Lacasse, Head Global Marketing, Product Line Management & Formulation Lucas Meyer Cosmetics at Clariant. “This next-generation of 2-in-1 product is a balance of formulation needs as well as skin health and feel.”

As consumers become increasingly aware of sensitive skin issues and the importance of maintaining skin microbiota, Pickmulse is a surfactant-free emulsifier that preserves skin balance compared to traditional emulsifiers, while maintaining a high level of sensory quality.

Pickmulse is surfactant-free and possesses transformative properties that allow customizable encapsulation systems. This oil-in-water (O/W) emulsifier ensures high skin tolerance and is microbiota-friendly. (Source: Lucas Meyer Cosmetics by Clariant)

Easy formulation of Pickering emulsions with proven sensory benefits

Due to the small size of quinoa starch particles, this product allows easy formulation of Pickering emulsions with an outstanding sensory skin feel. This improved tactile experience has been proven by scientific studies to stimulate wellbeing and reward areas in the brain, aligning with emerging market trends in neurocosmetics. These experiments included functional magnetic resonance imaging (fMRI) and electroencephalogram (EEG) measurements, and the perceived benefits were additionally confirmed through panelist questionnaires.

Pickmulse does not destabilize the stratum corneum, thus assuring high skin tolerance. When emulsified with 20% oil, Pickmulse can furthermore be used to create varied textures from sprays to supple creams, under cold conditions.

Encapsulation system optimized for ingredient stability and pleasing sensory qualities

Quinoa starch additionally has unique swelling properties that facilitate the encapsulation of lipophilic molecules under hot-processed conditions. As an encapsulation system, Pickmulse is able to increase the stability of sensitive ingredients and enhances the sensory feel of ingredients in the formulation.

For formulators, Pickmulse offers a cost-effective and user-friendly solution for in-house encapsulation exhibiting a high loading capacity (up to 25%) and a demonstrated efficacy to protect sensitive lipophilic ingredients.

Pickmulse is derived from quinoa, a nutrient-rich grain cultivated for centuries in Latin America. Lucas Meyer Cosmetics by Clariant responsibly sources organic quinoa from fields in Bolivia that have been cultivated for extended periods. The company collaborates with the Pro Inpa Foundation to foster a more resilient local economy. As a responsibly-sourced ingredient, Pickmulse addresses the growing consumer demand for natural and environmentally-friendly cosmetic components.